we are in gokarna which is a town on the coast in the state of karnatika. it is so amazing! we are finally out of tourist-land and in the real deal. i mean, there is tourist-land feeling everywhere, but here less of a western feeling to it and more like inidans come here. we are staying in the town which is a destination for pilgrims. there was a festival going on that ended yesterday. it was pretty amazing to walk the streets during the bustling time of celebration. we walked down a path that took us by a temple on a cliff where holy men and women were just sitting and enjoying the day. close to there is a place where water comes out that is known to have healing powers! past that and up some very steep steps is another very old and deserted temple. from here you can look down and see the town and the ocean and miles of palm trees. it is pretty beautiful. up here it is dry and desert feeling. then you continue on and end up walked down a little trail that pops out onto a beach where there are little huts that are cafes and everyone is relaxing and trying to stay out of the heat. right now we are at one of those little place and ate some great food. they have a computer so i am writing between swimming and relaxing and eating wonderful indian food! we have decided that we are going to just work our way down the coast and maybe not head inland yet towards mysore. it is a long long bus ride to mysore at this point and i don't think either of us is up for it. tomorrow we will hit the road again and head south with a town called Udupi in mind. i think we will be able to make it there. i have been feeling the changes happening as we spend more time here. a few days ago, i bought scissors and later that night in the dingiest hotel room we have stayed in yet, cut off a lot of my hair. it felt freeing to do this! i have been plagued by bug bites and a bit of a sweat-rash. my body is definitely still adjusting to these surroundings. it is all wonderful though and as luke put it this morning when the itching got me a little frustrated "Rose, would you rather be here (we were sitting on the rooftop restaurant of the hotel we are staying in where you can see down into the town through shady palm trees) with some bug bites and a rash, or getting ready to go to work at anthropologie right now?!" that made me smile and reminded me that this is what it is all about, the unexpected things that come at you when you surrender to the world and give yourself over to whatever comes your way!